"[…] And the prow sheared through the night into the dawn."

— Homer, The Odyssey

RYA Course 24’. The Beagle Channel.
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RYA Course 24’. The Beagle Channel.

Early on an expedition, weeks seem to be longer than land life ones. It’s been just two days since we left Puerto Williams, but the succession of events, fishing, hiking, barbeques on the beach, and beautiful scenery after the other one, could well seem that time here is set to pass much slower.

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South Georgia Wandering Albatross Survey (III)
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South Georgia Wandering Albatross Survey (III)

Five lap tops are opened and lit up on the salon table. Furrowed, no nonsense brows focus on their crib sheets. They are not to be interrupted with frivolities like what’s for dinner. Our researchers, have come to the end of our principle objective, the survey of 30 wandering albatross nesting sites on South Georgia […]

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South Georgia Wandering Albatross Survey (II)
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South Georgia Wandering Albatross Survey (II)

[…] It was blowing right out of the bay, a steady 30 knots, gusting 40 and Dion, who knows every single beach, rocky landing and the rest when asked what he thought about having a go said “It should be alright, between williwaws.” […]

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Zavodovski Expedition. Team Penguin.
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Zavodovski Expedition. Team Penguin.

Scrambling up the cliff meant it was finally happening, I was finally landing on Zavodovski Island. Home to the world’s largest Chinstrap and Macaroni penguin colony […]

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Zavodovski Expedition. Base camp logistics.
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Zavodovski Expedition. Base camp logistics.

[…] In the strongest gust being bombarded by gravel and pebbles the only option was to cease what you were doing and lie with your back to the wind till the gust past (we later discovered the winds at this time were gusting around 60kts). […]

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Zavodovski Expedition. The landing
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Zavodovski Expedition. The landing

[…] By noon we had both Bombard Commando dinghies ready to go - one in the water to drop of the scientist and their gear, the other ready to go on the foredeck as a back up in case of an emergency. […]

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Zavodovski Expedition. As far as Thule and Cook Is.
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Zavodovski Expedition. As far as Thule and Cook Is.

Unfortunately by the time we arrived, the wind and forecast had changed to a South Westerly which opened up Ferguson Bay to the winds and swell. So anchoring here was out of the option. Sailing back up North did not look good either with a huge storm sweeping over South Georgia and the northern of the South Sandwich Islands […]

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Zavodovski Expedition. Ice on the radar
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Zavodovski Expedition. Ice on the radar

Once nighttime fell we switched on the radar to detect bigger bergs and the ice light on the bow to spot smaller bits in time to alter course and avoid impact. (…)

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RYA Course 23’. Meteorology in the Southern Ocean
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RYA Course 23’. Meteorology in the Southern Ocean

[…] The wind starts to "scream" when its speed exceeds 45 or 50 knots as it interacts with the ship's rigging. But the wind also tells you its own story. The arrival of an intense depression is announced by a marked drop of the surface pressure we usually record on board with a barograph.

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RYA Course 23’. Mapmakers
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RYA Course 23’. Mapmakers

[…] One of the many challenges Ocean Yachtmaster students face during this voyage is to find Gough Island in the middle of the South Atlantic.

The challenge is to do it as the navigators before us, combining two traditional navigation techniques: celestial navigation and dead reckoning.

[…]

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RYA Course 23’. Classroom, Beagle, and Horn.
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RYA Course 23’. Classroom, Beagle, and Horn.

[…] Twenty-four hours later, we were around the majesty of the capes. Sudden blizzards and squalls prevented us from landing on its island that afternoon. Which we did the following day in a weather window after spending the night very nearby, hidden in Skip’s bullet-proof cave in the Wollaston Archipelago.

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Counting one and a half million penguins.
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Counting one and a half million penguins.

[…] Zavodovski Island, classed as an ‘active volcano’ and degassing continually contains probably the largest aggregation of any large vertebrate species in the world. In other words, it’s bigger than all of the great migrations of Africa and it’s probably only swarms of locusts or swarms of krill that could scoop it for the record.

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